The new dinner party begins with potato chips in a silver bowl and ends with somebody eating caviar in the kitchen after midnight. Formality is out; expensive mischief is in.
Hosts are abandoning complicated menus for one extravagant ingredient served with things from the corner store. It is less performance, more permission.
High-low, with a cold spoon
The best table we saw paired linen napkins with takeout cartons, vintage coupes with convenience-store ice, and a very serious tin with the least serious chips available.
Good taste is knowing when to stop being tasteful.
The only rule is abundance. Buy more ice than you think you need. Chill the glasses. Invite the friend who always stays too late.